Monday, August 22, 2016

Leather Bag Handles, City Quilter Closing, Woven Label Giveaway

Hello from a random vacation day.  The weather was phenomenal today!!!  Anyhoo, it's a bit of a smorgasbord post, with three topics that don't necessarily warrant their own post:

1.  The Leather Bag Handles have Stretched.
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They have also stretched on the other side of the same strap, I just didn't point it out in the photo above.
  • I have been using and enjoying my leather tote.  It is a great size, not too big and not too small.
  • It is lamb leather, so it is incredibly soft, and those who touch this bag in person remark how much softer it is than they thought it would be.  One of my coworkers was compelled to bury her face in it, that's how soft it was!
  • The handles have started to stretch, though.    I was very concerned about the handles separating from the bag (which is not happening) but had not considered that the straps would stretch.  Next time I will insert buckram between the two strap layers to prevent that from happening.
  • I still haven't sealed the raw edges with gum tragacanth, and I'm not sure that I will.



The City Quilter Is Closing
PR Day 2013 at Elliott Berman fabrics in NYC
The City Quilter storefront in 2013

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My first pillow "quilt" top, pieced but not quilted yet, Elizabeth Hartman Fancy Fox II pattern. I bought the original Fancy Fox (and a few other quilting patterns) at The City Quilter, even though I don't quilt.

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The City Quilter NYC subway fabric as an interior zipper pocket from a bag I made in 2014
  • MPB Day 2016 was amazingly hot (I don't think I've ever sweat that much in one weekend  in my whole life) and also really fun.  I felt so incredibly happy throughout the day.  
  • Alert:  I did not buy ANY fabric during MPB Day this year. My sewing room reorg really made me not want to add to the stash.  And it was soooo hot, I didn't want to carry more fabric around.
  • However, Anne told me  that the City Quilter is closing their bricks and mortar store in October.  A google search found these two posts here and here.  
  • I'm not a quilter (slowly venturing into quilting) but I have always loved the CQ for many reasons: .  
    • This is the only source for the NYC subway fabric that I have used in many zipper pockets and also a few gifted zipper pouches, and they will continue to sell that fabric online (it is their own design).  
    • I've always been tempted by their umbrella kit, but truth is I'm never going to use an umbrella that is that big.  If I lived in NYC though, I could totally have seen myself going to one of their umbrella kit classes for an afternoon.
    • I purchased a few sashiko kits at the CQ.
    • It's also how I discovered Heidi Boyd Crafts--I saw her kits at the CQ last August.   As you know I am a huge Heidi Boyd fan and have stitched many of her kits in the past year.
  • ATP and I will visit the CQ in September, but I'm not sure what their store will be like then, so close to closing.  I will miss you, CQ!!

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Heidi Boyd Craft Excitement

Woven Labels Giveaway
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  • Sometimes people ask where I get the woven labels with random words on them (not the custom-made labels with "Vacuuming the Lawn" but the other kind.)
  • I bought some at Joann's but found many through variety packs on eBay, particularly the "Me and My Big Ideas" or MAMBI woven labels that I think are intended for scrapbooking (set up an eBay search alert if you want to buy some yourself).
  • I am purging some of these labels because of my sewing room reorg; would you like any of these? If yes, just leave in the comments which one(s) you want and I am happy to mail them to you for free, even internationally.  They are very light and thin so I can mail them like a letter.  First come, first served.
Be well!

Saturday, July 30, 2016

My First Leather Bag from Handmade Chic by Laura Bennett

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Hello from my vacation!  When do you ever see me in shorts?  Never!  (And that is a Built By Wendy shirt I made like 8 years ago!)  This was taken before I added the second row of topstitching, but I like this picture so here it is!  Also those are my pumpkin vines in the background.
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I'm smiling manically to get my camera, which takes a picture when it detects a smile, to take the picture!  Here's the patch pocket for my phone.  And it's got the double row of topstitching!

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Interior pocket zipped up
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Inside the zipper pocket, a fun surprise awaits!  Double topstitched here too!
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But I wasn't smiling!!

This vacation I decided to focus on making things I've never made before--like dabbling in quilting and working with leather.  This post is about what I've learned with leather, because you know this blog is basically my "lab" notebook that I publicly share with you, and I don't want to forget what I've learned about leather this week!

(Also note that while I'm not blogging as much as I used to, I am on Instagram all the time; follow me here).

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I've dabbled with the idea of making something with leather for a few years now.

  • A few years ago (2012?), I took Laura Bennett's "Handmade Chic" book out of the library. (Laura Bennett was on Project Runway season 3).   I borrowed it again last summer and then finally bought the book.    It has a heavy emphasis on leather and her methods seemed easy.
  • I took a hands-on leather class with Kenneth King at the ASE in 2014 and recently found the handouts from the class.
  • I took a seminar class on leather with a staff member from Haberman's Fabrics, also at the ASE.  That might have been 2014.  Found the handout from that as well.
  • I watched and took copious notes (and I do mean pages of notes) from Don Morin's Making Leather Bags class on Craftsy.  Don is a fountain of knowledge but I had to put him on double speed.
As with most sewing classes, there are contradictions in methods that instructors teach, and as usual it boils down to trying each method and using the method that works for you and your machine.  

Earlier this year I got my feet wet by making two tassel keychains using the instructions from Bennett's book and a piece of leather from Kashi (Metro Textiles in NYC).  On Monday, I decided to try the tab key chain and business card holder in red patent pig leather that I bought during PR weekend this year Fishman's Fabrics to gain some practice.  On Thursday morning, I made the business card holder in this aqua-colored lamb leather, also from Fishman's Fabrics this year.  Late Thursday afternoon, I cut out the pieces and started sewing!!!

Testing and Other Notes
  • Use leather scraps to test stitch length and tension before stitching the real deal.
  • I used regular polyester thread, coats and clark # 5570. I did not double up the thread
  • I used my BabyLock Soprano, which is a pretty powerful home machine (well, compared to my Brother Project Runway machine).
  • Whenever I refer to Wonder Tape below, it's the Clover Dritz kind and I also used the brayer that Morin recommends to really get the tape to stick.
Note about the bag
I wanted to make the pink bag that is on the book cover, but that is NOT the bag in the book!  The pink bag inside the book is a taller and not-as-wide version of the bag on the front cover, and it doesn't have the bag bling!

Positioning of pattern pieces
  • My leather had a hole in it, so I worked around the hole.
  • I cut pattern pieces out of a large paper shopping bag to figure out placement.
  • The large ruler represents the straps (which I cut 3" longer than the ruler, see below)
  • After making the bronze bag (which i haven't blogged yet), I cut the main bag pieces 18" long and 13.5" high.   (This later was cut down to 13")
  • The upper interior leather piece is 18" long and 3" high
  • I also cut a patch leather pocket x by y
  • And I decided to do a tassel for this too.  I cut this 14" by 4" instead of the 13" by 3" the book recommends, to make a really substantial looking tassel.
  • Cut out the leather using a new blade with my rotary cutter
  • The interior fabric lining was 18" long and 11" high (but read more about that below)

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Strapping:
  • Bennett recommends 1" straps that are 22" long.  
  • From all my prior bagmaking, I know I prefer to cut 27" straps, and  I cut them 1.5" wide
  • I used Dritz Wonder Tape right on the edge to tape the straps to each other
  • I used my walking foot and put a strip of tissue paper under the strap and against the feed dogs.
  • In my tests, the size 16 brand new leather needle was fine but when I started sewing the straps, it skipped stitches :( .  I used a size 18 brand new leather needle and it was fine--no skipped stitches!
    • I could have done another row of stitching and then just cut the bad stitching off (then cut the other strap to the same size), but I didn't.  So one strap has one row with some skipped stitches.  Morin's class recommends hand stitching these skipped stitches, but I'm not sure I will.
  • 7.0 needle position, 4.0 stitch length, 4.0 tension
  • Aligned the edge of the walking foot with the edge of the leather.
  • After stitching, I used a quilter's ruler that has 1/8" marked on it, aligned the stitching right under the green 1/8" line, and used my rotary cutter to cut away the excess.   I put what I wanted to be the "right" side of the strapping down on my cutting table and cut from the wrong side.
  • Be sure to use an even pass of the blade all the way to the end and beyond, pushing down a bit on the ruler to get a straight cut that doesn't veer off at the end.

The end result is straps that are 1.25" wide and 27" long.  This may be a little too wide.  Next time I might cut 1.25" wide straps to start, so that at the end they are 1" wide.
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The exterior 
  • Used Dritz Wonder Tape to tape the front to the back, right sides together, right on the raw edge.
  • I used my walking foot and put tissue paper under the leather
  • Sewed front to the back
  • 3.5 needle position, 4.0 stitch length, 4.0 tension
  • In each corner, I removed a 2" x 2" square, then boxed out the corner and sewed it down.  I sewed it again about 1/8" away.
The lining

  • Well I kind of had an internal debate over what lining to use, especially as I prefer light linings so I can easily see what is in my bag. So I took it to Instagram, and pdxsquared recommended orange, which I thought was a fabulous idea (HoJo's colors!), but the orange in my stash is like traffic cone orange, way too bright.  In the end, I used this Lisette fabric I bought at Joann's in 2012, which has the same color aqua as the leather.  
  • Interfaced the lining with Fashion Sewing Supply medium weight iron-on interfacing.
  • Drew a line 1" down from the top of the fabric lining, then aligned the raw edge of the leather lining piece to meet this line, using Dritz wonder tape to secure.  
  • Topstitched the leather down. Since I wanted the topstitching really close to the edge of the leather, I aligned the raw edge with the left edge of the white part of the walking foot.
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Patch pocket 
  • Folded the top down by 1", used wonder tape to secure
  • Topstitched this fold down
  • Topstitched the pocket to the lining
Interior Zipper Pocket
  • Used the tutorial I always use but used a 9" zipper and cut the pocket to be 13" instead of 12" long.
  • The zipper is from Emmaline Bags
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The pocket fabric was a remnant I bought at Joann's a while ago.

Bag bling
  • This was my first time installing bag bling, in this case a metal tag that says "Handmade" and has a cute little bird, also from Emmaline Bags.
  • It was super easy to install--use the plate to mark where to cut the slits, carefully cut the slits with a box cutter, then push the prongs through the slits, put the metal plate over the prongs and fold the prongs down
  • Of course this part is a bit like cutting a welt pocket --mess it up badly and there isn't any going back!
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Sewing the lining and strapping to the exterior: take one (this did not work well for me but for completeness sake, here's what I did):
  • Cut a strip of Peltex to fit the bottom of the bag to give it some structure. Put it in the bottom of the bag.
  • Drew a line .75"from the short edge of each strap.
  • aligned strap 4.5" from the side seams on the exterior
  • Used wonder tape to secure
  • Aligned raw edge of lining to raw edge of exterior and wonder clipped (not taped) in place.  Foreshadowing:  I should have wonder taped all the way around!
  • Ran a few samples without skipped stitches and thought I was good to go
  • 7.0 needle position, 4.0 stitch length, 4.0 tension
  • Aligned edge of walking foot with raw edge
  • Tissue paper under the foot
  • Sadly, I got skipped stitches over the handles and at the bulky side seams, and the top just looked sloppy overall because it wasn't taped together beforehand.

At this point I had dinner and googled for help, and got this miracle blog post which stated that she uses her walking foot for most of the sewing but for strap attachment she uses her teflon foot, a brand new needle and a hump jumper

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Sewing the lining and strapping to the exterior: take two (this worked as per the blog post!)
  • Carefully removed the handles from the bag by removing the stitches in that area
  • Cut off 1/2" all the way around the top of the bag through both layers to remove the bad topstitching (I did this in 4 cuts)
  • Taped the handles back in place with wonder tape
  • Taped the front to the back with wonder tape all the way around the top edge
  • Used a brand new size 18 leather needle
  • Used the teflon foot
  • Put a piece of paper under the leather against the feed dogs
  • Aligned raw edge of leather with edge of teflon foot
  • 7.0 needle position, 4.0 stitch length, 4.4 tension this time
  • Kind of gunned it over each strap instead of stitching slowly.  I was thinking of it like driving my car...if it's a bit of a steep hill I gun it, right?
  • Only used the hump jumper for the side seams (exterior seams taped to one side with wonder tape and interior seams taped to the opposite side)
  • NO skipped stitches, YAY!
  • As I was falling asleep that night, I wondered how the strapping would stay secure to the bag, as the only thing keeping it in place is that one row of topstitching and some wondertape.  After conferring on IG, I stitched a second row this morning, 3.5 needle position, 4.0 stitch length and 4.4 tension, and it still looks good (no skipped stitches YAY!) and should be more secure.

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Double row of stitches now!

The tassel

  • Making the tassel is super easy!!!
  • Followed the directions in the book, but instead of winging the 1/8" cuts, I used the green 1/8" guide on a quilting ruler to make the cuts, squaring up every inch (if you read Bennett's book, what I wrote here will make sense)
  • For the wrapping, I used 1/2" permanent Scotch double sided tape instead of the wonder tape since this part is not being stitched at all.
  • The largest keyring I had in my stash was 1.25" and the strap is 1.25" so it squishes the bag strap a little bit.  When I go to MPB Day, I will try to find a larger keyring at Pacific Trimming.
  • I think this tassel, along with the "handmade" metal label, really makes the bag look professional.
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A few notes about tab keyrings and business card holders...
  • 3.5 stitch length is better to make it easier to hit the corner marks
  • I used this silver leather marking pen I bought at SIL Thread in NYC to draw directly on the leather
  • Followed that line as I stitched
  • then wet a paper towel with cold water and wiped off the silver marking as soon as I was done stitching, and used a paper towel to dry.
  • That worked on both the red patent leather and also the aqua leather.
  • cut the excess off, being  sure to use an even pass of the blade all the way to the end and beyond, pushing down a bit on the ruler, so as to make a really nice angle.


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So now what???
  • Bennett's book recommends sealing the raw edges with gum tragacanth or acrylic paint.  I ordered some gum tragacanth on Amazon and am waiting for it to arrive.  I will try it out first on the business card holder.  She makes it sound super easy and I hope it is!
  • This was actually my muslin for the bag I want to make out of the red patent leather, so that I could work out the kinks and learn how to sew with leather.  Now I am feeling more confident.  I could just make this bag again in the red patent, or I could make a different bag that I've had my eye on, but that one requires birthing the bag through an opening in the interior zipper pocket, and I'm afraid the patent leather will get lines in it that won't ever come out.  Guess I will do a mini-test first and figure it out!!!  (Or what about a red patent leather backpack...hmmmm!)


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Be well!!

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Summer sewing dreams #1, #2, and #4 realized

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Hey!  So I just finished watching the finale of season 4 the GBSB and I cried, which really took me by surprise!!

So it is summer here in NJ, glorious sunny fantastic summer. Spring and summer are my favorite seasons and I hang on to them with all my might.  I eat outside as much as possible, sometimes staying outside til dark, looking at IG periodically while the sun sets.

Near the start of June I made a list of "summer sewing dreams".  I know there are people who sew with a plan or sew to make coordinated items.  I'm just not one of those people.  I sew what I like pretty much when I feel like it.  I'm also slow at sewing.  And sewing is supposed to be fun, not my own personal sweatshop.  So calling these ideas "plans" feels like setting myself up for disappointment, whereas calling these ideas "dreams" seems more appropriate somehow.  I make these kinds of lists frequently.  I like seeing all my "dreams" in front of me.
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And somehow, sewing dreams 1, 2 and 4 happen to coordinate with each other (sewing dream #3 was the cherry print dress in my last post).
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Sewing dream #1 is the Jalie 3246 shrug.  I wrote a big post last December with tips on how to sew this shrug.  After sewing for PR weekend, I took a 3.5 week long sewing break, and sewing the shrug seemed like a nice way to transition back to sewing.  The fabric is a delightfully textured cotton sweater knit from my fabric dealer Kashi (Metro Textiles) in NYC last year.  I bought 2 yards and I'm glad I did because it is not wide fabric at all!  Normally a yard is enough to make a shrug but not in this fabric.
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Sewing dream #2 is the gray skirt.  It's actually Vogue 1247, which I sewed back in 2011 in the same fabric, but this time I omitted the pockets and the horizontal seaming across the front and back of the skirt, which gives a rather lumpy appearance in this spongy fabric.
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This fabric is from Jomar in Philly and was purchased during PR weekend in 2010!  I have been wanting to sew this basic for ages, and needed to sew it to get it off my mind.
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Sewing dream #4 is the lacy yoke top. This shot up to the top of my list when I saw the same lacy colorblocking on IG that rosiejanesews made.  I really liked Simplicity 8016 when it was released but did not want to do any new fitting, so I took S1283 (the pattern I used when I sewed a sweater from a cotton knit blanket) and cut it so that it had a yoke and a lower neckline.  The neckline and armholes are bound in Nike Dri-Fit then twin needle stitched from the top, and the hem is a rolled hem on my serger since I didn't lengthen the top enough.

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 The raspberry stretch lace is from Apple Annies online (2015) and is underlined with raspberry double knit from Michael Levine (2013).  The gray bottom piece is from some gray double  knit from who-knows-where-or-when.  The fit was waaay better in my chunky cotton sweater knit than it is in all this ponte, but it still makes me smile.

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I originally sewed a piece of this lace into a tank top for the gym last year.  The raspberry stretch lace will make another appearance in a different incarnation here soon, so stay tuned!
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So how about you?  Are you living the (summer sewing) dream? Did you watch the GBSB??  Did you cry??

Be well!

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Deer and Doe Reglisse Dress

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When I saw Deepika wearing the Deer and Doe Reglisse Dress at PR weekend, I totally wanted her dress. Since I was pretty sure she wouldn't give me hers, I came home from PR weekend, bought the paper pattern from the Deer and Doe website and bought the fabric from Fabric.com.
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Does this random truck match my dress?
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Reglisse means "licorice" in French (and la robe is dress).

This is a pattern I never would have purchased based on the line drawing alone.  It looks too young for me and too sweet in this line drawing.
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The Fabric
This rayon fabric is Cotton and Steel Fruit Dots in the navy blue and red colorway.   The pattern calls for 3.25 yards of 60" wide fabric.  The fabric is 45" wide and I wound up buying 5 yards in 3 yard and 2 yard increments because I didn't realize when I first bought it that it wasn't 60" wide.  This proved to be a wise decision because I was able to use the actual fabric for my muslin of the bodice.  I have nothing in my stash quite like this rayon so it was great to use the real fabric for the muslin.

When I prewashed and dried a 4" square sample of this fabric, it frayed like crazy!!! So I serged the cut edges of the fabric when I prewashed and dried the real deal.  (I never dry my dresses in the dryer--I air dry instead--but occasionally something will slip through so best to have preshrunk the fabric).

Deepika's PR review mentioned that this fabric really picks up shine marks from the iron so I only used my Elna Press on a low setting with a press cloth and did not use any water.  No shine marks.

The muslin
I came back from my day trip to NYC on Friday night totally raring to go with the muslin!  So that night I cut out a straight 40 bodice as the 38 bodice would be too small for my bust.  I basted it all together and found, as Deepika did, that the neckline was way too deep. I also felt the neckline was also too wide and the armholes were too deep.
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Lots of chest on display

Saturday morning I made the adjustments to the pattern pieces.
Raised the neckline "point" 2.5 inches, added 1" to the neckline and shoulder yoke edges  grading to that point, and added 1" at the armhole.  Also I should note that Deer and Doe are drafted for a C cup and I am more of an A/B cup but I didn't try small bust adjusting it.  The blousey nature of this dress didn't make a difference.
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The back, the front, and the shoulder yoke.  The front and back are cut on the bias.

The dress
I cut a 40 in the waist and skirt as well (even though my waist and hips are more like the 42 on their chart) because the waistband, before adding elastic, is 36" and the skirt is incredibly full.

I made intensive effort to avoid a cherry on my bust apex.  :)

I did the burrito method on the shoulder yoke as per another PR review to make a clean finish and also to provide some more stability in this area.  (the shoulder yoke is gathered in front--a nice touch!)
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Do not do not do not try to go rogue and partially burrito the waistband as I did going for another really clean finish--I wound up undoing this because it means that 4 layers of fabric are on your waist plus the elastic.  I undid the waistband to unburrito it, and also wound up making wider seam allowances there so that the waistband would be closer to my actual waistline.
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Partially burritoed--do not do that!
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Unburritoed
Use the thinnest elastic you have--originally I put some thick stash elastic in there and the whole thing looked lumpy.  I took it out and used Pamela's elastic, which is thin, and cut it down to .75" wide (instead of the recommended 1") and the effect is much better.  I also left a bit of extra length in the elastic with the intent of letting out the elastic if it felt too tight or restrictive--I wound up tightening it so that it doesn't sag in the waist.

Knot vs bow
It is supposed to be worn in a bow but I am really more a knot person.

Piecing the skirt together

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Inside out and pieced together.
The skirt is really wide (wider than 45") and I wound up having to piece the skirt together in the lower corners at the end.  That area is somewhat puckery from the outside and I wish I had redone it to please my perfectionist side.
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The hem
I had read Deepika's review that the dress is short and she lengthened 4".  When I held the pattern up to my body, I felt it didn't need 4", so I cut it out to the longest pattern length (size 46) which was only about 1.5" longer than the size 40 that I used for the rest of the pattern.  This wound up being exactly the perfect length for me so I used the rolled hem feature on my serger to hem it (to preserve length) and I think it looks really good, especially in this drapey rayon fabric!  I turned the DF down to .6 for most of the hem so that it would be flat and pressed with my Elna Press.


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Rolled hem on my serger

I finished most of the dress by Sunday night except the hem.  Hemmed it Monday night and wore it to work on Tuesday. Got lots of nice compliments.  It really is a fun and floaty dress to wear, and it's really effortless dressing.  The fabric feels so soft and smooth.  I just love it!
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Full skirt
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front
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Back after sitting in it briefly--the rayon wrinkles up
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Obligatory twirling shot
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Side
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Deepika was right; the bust darts are too high, but they didn't seem high in the muslin

Be well!